“Southern Charm” is looking charming and a sleeve tutorial…

I was able to spend a fair amount of time on Addy’s dress today and it’s starting to look like something seen in the 1860’s! Addy is liking it very much and loves it each time there is a fitting! We had PLENTY of them today…

The sleeve underarm seam was stitched up… the skirt was attached to the bodice and there’s a nice softly rounded point in front, the snaps are sewn on the back and the handwork on the inside is finished!

As I said before, the short lacy sleeves can be worn pulled down or pushed up, almost under the ruffle.

It’s not stitched on yet, but I’m considering the tiny tatted lace trim going around the neckline area…

Here’s one more look with the sleeves pushed up…

Susette asked a few days ago about the construction of the sleeves. I’ve taken a few pictures and hope I can explain it to you so you’ll understand. It’s really quite simple and I probably should have done a sleeve from scratch, so you could see every single step.

When the sleeve has been cut out, finish the bottom edge with a rolled hem on a serger or a tiny zig zag. I pulled up the lace so you could see the edge.

Lay a piece of lace across the bottom of the sleeve about 1/8th of an inch from the serged edge and stitch with a very tiny zig zag or a straight stitch… make sure you stay on the lace or you’ll have gaps in it when it’s pulled up.

Now you are going to flip the sleeve over to the wrong side and using a piece of 1/8″ elastic, (longer than your sleeve’s bottom edge) you want to lay it down so it’s about 3/8″ away from the edge of the lace you just stitched on. Stitch the end of the elastic in place to hold it. Using your largest zig zag stitch, shorten your stitch length and hold the elastic between the zig zagging making sure not to catch it on the sides. It won’t pull up right if you catch it. The zig zag stitches just make a sort of thread casing instead of adding bulk with an enclosed casing. When you get to the end, just run your stitches off the fabric. Don’t pull up your elastic yet! (If you forget and pull up your elastic, try to work out the gathers before you add the second piece of lace. You can still add that second row of lace but it’s much easier if the elastic isn’t gathered up.)

Here’s what it looks like on the top side.

Now it’s time to take the second piece of lace and let it overlap the first piece by just a little bit. It needs to be stitched on so your stitching doesn’t get in the way of the elastic.

I hope you’ll stay tuned to the end of this dress…it’s been a very time consuming one… and there’s still lots to do! :o)

See you tomorrow,
Blessings, Jeanne

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  1. Charlotte Trayer says:

    Addy’s dress is looking beautiful!! I wasn’t sure I’d like the extra little tatted edging at the collar, but I do! Actually, I like it either with or without. It will be interesting to see what you decide.

    I’m so happy for both of you, that George’s chemo is finally at an end. I can’t blame you for wanting to take a nap–it’s been a stressful few months for you! May God grant you many more happy–and healthy–years together!!

    • Jeanne W says:

      HI Charlotte,
      I’m glad you’re approving of Addy’s new dress. As our resident 4-H judge, you keep me on my toes all the time! I might have Rebecca make the necklace first before I hand stitch the lace on the neckline.
      We are happy too, that the Chemo part of this ordeal is over. I will totally agree with your statement about having many more happy and healthy years together! Amen!
      Blessings, Jeanne

  2. As always, your work is stunning and Addy is truly beautiful in the newest creation.


    • Jeanne W says:

      Thank you Becky,
      I’m glad you are liking the looks of Addy’s dress!
      Have a wonderful day! It’s almost the weekend!
      Blessings, Jeanne

  3. Linda Doyle says:

    Oh yes, Jeanne, I love that extra added lace around the collar! It just adds to the laciness and delicate look of the dress! It is coming along so beautifully and will be a stunning creation once you get it finished.

    How interesting the tutorial is, but I could never do that! It takes a special someone with patience and know-how, —-and it’s NOT me!

    • Jeanne W says:

      Hi Linda,
      I found the tatted lace at a yard sale and wish I had bought all the laces they had… I’m regretting it now… There is still a ways to go on her dress, but every day it looks a little more finished than the day before…
      If you could master the pleats in the back of Felicity’s brown satiny dress, I’m sure you could do these sleeves…
      Thanks Linda,
      Blessings, Jeanne

  4. Charlotte A. says:

    Addy’s dress just keeps getting more beautiful every day. I think you could go either way with the tatted lace at the neckline. You always pick the best way for the overall look.
    Your sleeve tutorial is very interesting. Between your instructions and the photos, it made sense to me. Thanks for showing us all the complexity involved to create such a pretty little sleeve.
    Hope you have a good day today!
    Take care.

    • Jeanne W says:

      Thank you Charlotte,
      I”m glad you are enjoying the making of Addy’s dress… me too!
      Oh good, I’m glad you could understand my sleeve instructions… I wrote the instructions out, but sometimes when you sew, you don’t see things that non-sewers see…and so I revised and revised it hoping to keep it simple, but still have enough info for everyone.
      I plan on having a good day and hope you do too!
      Blessings, Jeanne

  5. Well, charming is the word. Beautiful. I’m not sure about the extra tatting. If you are planning a necklace, might be too much. Perhaps, a smaller trim? But, I’m sure whatever you do will be perfect. This dress is just so special. Love it.

    • Jeanne W says:

      HI Joy,
      I was trying to keep all of my laces vintage on this dress and this tatted lace is the tiniest one I have. Like I said to someone above, I may wait until Rebecca makes a necklace and then see about adding it.
      I’m glad you like the dress!
      Blessings, Jeanne

  6. Susette says:

    I was hoping to see the trim around the neckline and there it is. That was the way I pictured in my mind the way the sleeve construction was done, but a picture is truly worth a thousand words. It looks great, adds no bulk and fits so well. Thanks to George and/or Rebecca for holding the elastic tight while you took the pictures. Once again a great tutorial. Thanks once again for sharing your skills and techniques with us.

    • Jeanne W says:

      HI Susette,
      I hope my sleeve instructions and pictures helped you out. I might do it again sometime and then I’ll take pictures of it along the way and not use one that is already finished.
      I actually stretched the sleeve out and pinned it to my ironing board and took pics from that.
      Thanks Susette,
      Blessings, Jeanne

  7. Marilyn says:

    Ironing boards are wonderful things — holding things, sorting them, wrapping presents, demonstrating sewing techniques, even ironing.
    The dress is beautiful — it seems to be going together quite smoothly, it’s just things like crud and chemo that have interrupted your progress. The crud you could have done without. The end of chemo is worth a big celebration. Really, all the celebrating is as much to encourage the other patients as to celebrate. When you see something and think “it could have been me,” it’s nice when it’s a really good thing.
    Now to stay happy and healthy together forever. Congratulations to you both.

    • Jeanne W says:

      Hi Marilyn,
      I do use my ironing board for lots of things, including what you mentioned. Speaking of ironing boards…I DO LOVE the new height of my newly acquired board..and I love the wider end on it. I will never go back to the skinny pointed end ones.
      Thanks Marilyn,
      Blessings, Jeanne

  8. Marilyn says:

    I went back for a final look at the laces. The loopy lace is perfect for this. The tatted lace is an addition I really like. That middle lace has been under-appreciated. It’s lovely. Now I want to see how you’ll trim the skirt, but I’ll probably come back later today to look again at the collar.

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